Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017
96 Points - James Suckling. - A benchmark for Châteauneuf du Pape, the Vieux Télégraphe has been run by the Brunier family for five generations, since 1891. "Immediately a sense of darker fruit in this vintage. The nose has closed up a little since tasting in barrel. It has some reserved, sanguine notes and an essence-like raspberry core. Some stones and chalk here, too. Very long and focused palate. The grenache is singing here. Dense but soft and supple tannins, the product of thick, healthy skins."
"Full shimmering ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe boysenberry, Chambord and Asian spices, and a sexy floral nuance gains strength with air. Sweet and seamless on the palate, displaying a suave blend of power and delicacy to the concentrated red and blue fruit, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors. Shows impressive energy and a mineral quality on the gently tannic, penetrating finish, which hangs on with a strong, floral-driven tenacity." - Vinous
About the Producer
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe has been run by the Brunier family for five generations, and since 1891. The estate’s vineyards are situated on the famous “Plateau de la Crau” the stony terrace where there is nothing but “galets roulés”, or rounded stones, as far as the eye can see. This special terroir imparts a highly distinctive minerality to the wines. Vieux Télégraphe is made from predominantly three grape varieties, 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre plus 5% Cinsault and Clairette. In their state-of-the-art gravity flow winery, the grapes are partially destemmed and are fermented in both stainless steel and wood cuves. The blending is done at the end of June after which the wine is matured in large foudres for 20 months. The red wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered and display tremendous concentration and intense flavours of dark cherry and “garrigue”. The best vintages will age for 20 years and more.
96 Points - James Suckling. Immediately a sense of darker fruit in this vintage. The nose has closed up a little since tasting in barrel. It has some reserved, sanguine notes and an essence-like raspberry core. Some stones and chalk here, too. Very long and focused palate. The grenache is singing here. Dense but soft and supple tannins, the product of thick, healthy skins.
94 Points - Wine Spectator. Steeped red currant, plum and raspberry fruit splays out, while light lavender, black tea and singed juniper accents fill in. A juniper laces up the finish, lending definition while the fruit pumps through. Best from 2022 through 2040. 1,700 cases imported.
94-95 Points - Josh Raynolds. Full shimmering ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe boysenberry, Chambord and Asian spices, and a sexy floral nuance gains strength with air. Sweet and seamless on the palate, displaying a suave blend of power and delicacy to the concentrated red and blue fruit, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors. Shows impressive energy and a mineral quality on the gently tannic, penetrating finish, which hangs on with a strong, floral-driven tenacity.
93-95 Points - Jeb Dunnuck. The 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is another elegant, floral example from this vintage. Black raspberries, red currants, peppery garrigue, tons of minerality, and a seaweed note that I always find in this cuvée gives way to a rich, medium to full-bodied, balanced, structured wine that has everything in the right places. With good acidity, ripe, present tannin, and plenty of length, it will need 3-5 years of cellaring and keep for 15-20 years.
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