By Jon Cellier - Head of Wine & Business Intelligence, Perfect Cellar
Bordeaux Primeurs 2024: A Vintage Defined by Challenge and Resilience
Bordeaux is a region that thrives on speculation - whether as an investment, a symbol of tradition, or simply the relentless scrutiny it attracts. There’s always chatter about the future of Bordeaux (I even heard someone suggest it could be replaced by Hull - God help us), but each year, the region finds a way to prove its enduring relevance.
Having just returned from a week’s tasting in Bordeaux, I found myself surprised and, ultimately, optimistic. The mood on the early flight out from Gatwick was subdued - a plane full of fine wine trade professionals, many expecting a tough week. Yet, as ever, Bordeaux had more to offer than the headlines suggest.
A Vintage Won by Grit, Not Grace
2024 was a costly year for Bordeaux. For those of us in the UK, it’s easy to underestimate just how expensive labour is in France - especially when weekend and holiday work can double or triple the cost. This year wasn’t the harmonious partnership between man and nature that we saw in 2022; it was a battle. Extra hours in the vineyard and during harvest were essential to overcome nature’s challenges.
For the larger, cash-rich Châteaux, these hurdles were manageable. But for smaller producers - the unsung heroes whose names rarely make headlines and of which Perfect Cellar thrive in representing in the UK - 2024 brought real uncertainty. Some faced such low production that their wines may not appear at all this year.
Vintage Conditions: Water, Work, and Technology
2024 was defined by water; too much of it. A wet winter left most appellations saturated by March/April. Flowering was uneven, and mildew became a persistent threat, accounting for a 20–25% reduction in some crops. There were also bouts of botrytis (which is welcome in Sauternes, less so in red wines territories), coulure, and millerandage. Summer brought some respite, but rain returned in September and October, delaying harvest and challenging ripeness.
These conditions called for relentless work in the vineyard - some properties sprayed against mildew up to 30 times, often requiring weekend shifts. Technology played a vital role: green harvesting, optical sorters, density baths, and even reverse osmosis were widely used. But all of this comes at a cost - one that’s easier for the top estates to bear.
Quality and Quantity: A Mixed Bag
Yields are down across the board, La Conseillante, for example, released only half as much as last year, while Latour saw yields as low as 10–11 hl/ha. Ruthless sorting at the best estates meant significant quantities of fruit were discarded to maintain quality. The result? The best wines are genuinely good, but this required both resources and skill.
For smaller, less well-funded estates, 2024 was particularly tough. There are still some excellent value wines to be found and I am glad to say we have them on offer at Perfect Cellar.
Market Outlook: Lower Prices, Select Opportunities
Most prices dropped significantly; at least another 20 to 30% off last year’s levels. There are definitely wines worth buying, especially for those looking for enjoyable mid-term Bordeaux at attractive prices.
It’s also worth noting the quality of the dry whites, full of verve and tension, and some excellent sweet wines with crisp acidity, though, as with the reds, quality is not uniform.
From a wine buyer’s perspective, my advice is simple: buy the 2024 vintage to drink it. Support the small producers and appreciate their resilience. Buy from the big names to taste how Bordeaux responds to adversity.
Will I be buying 2024 en Primeur?
Absolutely. As I do every year, I’ll support the producers I love and respect, regardless of what Mother Nature threw at them. This is a vintage that rewards an open mind, careful selection, and, above all, an appreciation for the extraordinary effort behind every bottle.