English sparkling wine has taken the world by storm over the past decade. Climate change has allowed producers to unlock the full potential of superb sites and deliver world-beating wines. Though still in its infancy, critics are moving away from comparisons with Champagne and judging English sparkling wine as a style of its own.
To get the inside track on English fizz, I caught up with Michael Kennedy, CEO of Roebuck Estates. Founded in 2013 in West Sussex, Roebuck has become established as one of England’s great producers, making vintage wines of extraordinary quality and individuality. I started by asking Michael how he saw the English wine scene today.
He said there’s little doubt that climate change has helped make English wine what it is today. 'We’re still scratching the surface, and as the vines age and we learn more about the sites we’re working with, the wines will only improve. Commercially speaking, there’s massive export potential, and I believe we’re on the verge of a new growth period.'
Roebuck Classic Cuvée 2020. Mid-gold, with tiny, even pearlescent bubbles, it opens with an arresting nose of flowers, honey, yeast, and red and green berries. Medium-bodied and with good intensity and presence, layers of orchard fruits, tangy berries, chalk, and sweet spices combine in an elegant, yet forthcoming fashion. Enjoy this on its own or with fish pâte or creamy cheeses.
Climate Change: Opportunity & Challenge
It’s hard to overestimate the impact of climate change. When I entered the wine trade in the early 1990s, English wines were produced from various hybrid grapes of variable quality such as Seyval Blanc and Müller-Thurgau. Varieties were selected for their ability to ripen, and the resulting wines were more interesting than profound. Fast forward thirty years and producers such as Roebuck are successfully growing classic Champagne grapes such as Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. Warmer summers and drier, sunnier early autumns have given these noble varieties the conditions they need to achieve optimum ripeness.
That’s not to say that climate change isn’t causing problems. England has seen its fair share of extreme weather events over the past few years. Earlier, warmer springs, excessive heat, drought, and floods have played merry Hell here as in other parts of the winemaking world. One issue I keep hearing about is a lack of ‘hang time’, the time between flowering and harvest. Received wisdom has it that the optimum hang time is around 100 days, and I asked Michael if this was proving a problem for them. He said that while they were seeing variation, the grapes are still getting the time on the vine they need. 2025 saw 102 days, and while harvest was still a few weeks away when we spoke, he was confident 2026 would see 100+ days and that the resulting wines would be exceptional.
Michael also highlighted the advantage English vineyards have over Champagne as the nights are cooler. Cooler nights not only extend hang time, but promote acidity – key to great sparkling wines, and English wines in particular – boost aromas, and allow for greater complexity.
Roebuck Estates: Vintage Wines Only
Roebuck’s decision to only produce vintage wines is fascinating. From a winemaking perspective, it removes the safety net of blending to make a non-vintage wine, leaving them to work with what nature gives them. In challenging years like 2024, 2021, and 2016, most producers relied heavily on non-vintage wines. Roebuck doesn’t have this luxury, so I asked Michael how they manage in difficult years. He explained that with 6 vineyards in 82 blocks from Sussex to Kent, they could always find fruit that met their exacting standards. It takes over two hours to drive from one side of their holdings to the other, a distance that encompasses different soils, exposures, and elevations, giving the winemaking team plenty to work with. Combined with their tiny production and commitment to quality at all costs, even in challenging, low-yield vintages such as 2106, they can produce exceptional wines like the Rosé de Noirs 2016, which Jamie Goode awarded 91/100.
Roebuck Estates Blanc de Noirs. Mid-gold: the nose reveals a mixture of baked orchard fruits, wild strawberry, rosehip, almond and honey. The extended (48 months) bottle ageing is apparent on the impressive palate with its creaminess, richness, and flavours of honey and almond brioche. This is balanced by abundant black and red berries, tangy citrus acidity, and a seam of saline-tinted minerals. Show-stopping on its own, it has the power and concentration to partner with pâtés, white fish, or lobster.
English Sparkling Wine: No Champagne Wannabe
We discussed the winemaking philosophy at Roebuck and, like many in the industry, Michael was quick to point out that they’ve no desire to be seen as a Champagne look-alike. Their aim has always been to produce exceptional wines that reflect the place and time from which they were made, with their own style and character. This fits perfectly with their vintage wine-only approach and their collection of sites. Every growing season is different, and the vines react to these variations from plot to plot, allowing for complex differences. Having tasted multiple wines from numerous years, these provide a fascinating overlay to the house’s rich, minerally style. The Roebuck Estates Rosé de Noirs is a great example.
Described to me by Michael as a 'serious' rosé, it lived up to its billing. Pale pink, with an intense, firm nose of cherry, raspberry, cranberry, and dusty minerals; on the palate, it's taut and composed. The structure coming from the Pinot and Meunier is noticeable, as is the skin contact, which adds texture and contrast to the cherry and berry tones. Fresh and clean, creamy yeast comes through toward the finish, with green apple and pink grapefruit adding further diversion. Serve this now with seafood, smoked fish, or lamb, or lay it down for a few more years.
What's Next For English Sparkling Wine?
What’s next for English sparkling wine is a hot topic in the trade. As a sector, it’s grown at breakneck speed, going from a curiosity to a world beater in just a few years. The tiny overall production — 2023 saw a record high of 21.3 million bottles, 85% less than Champagne — means many see a great opportunity for small-batch super-premium wines like Roebuck’s Rare Expressions. Rare Expressions are given 7-8 years of ageing before release and showcase a particular grape, vineyard, or vintage. While these are becoming more popular, Michael gave me the impression that they remain committed to making great wines at all price points. Personally, I think this is a good thing. In many of the world’s great regions — one thinks of Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Champagne — the finest wines have become the preserve of the rich, depriving ordinary wine lovers of an amazing experience.
We finished by discussing the opportunities that lay ahead. Global demand for English sparkling wine is growing, and while Norway is their largest export market, Michael sees huge potential elsewhere. Even the worryingly wine-phobic Gen Y and Gen Z are fans of sparkling wine, finding the fresher style and food-friendliness more appealing. He believes more education is required. Just as Champagne isn’t defined by a single style, so English sparkling wine is diverse, and it needs its stories told.
English sparkling wine is in a brilliant place, and the success of the 2026 vintage will only burnish its reputation. For me, Roebuck Estates encapsulates what’s great about it. Outstanding quality, an impressive range of wines, affordability, and a drive to achieve more mean I can’t wait to see what happens next.
Giles
Giles Luckett is a freelance wine writer and Perfect Cellar’s Head of Fine Wine Sales.