Over the last twenty-five years, the Tuscan wine scene has changed beyond all recognition. Top producers are focused on quality, not quantity; wines reflect the ground from which they came rather than being buried in oak, and ‘international’ varieties have been integrated to dazzling effect. As a result, Tuscan wines are amongst the most sought-after in the world.
A producer that encapsulates these changes is Icario. Founded in 1998 in the stunning hills of Montepulciano, this family-owned estate produces a wonderful range of wines that blend tradition with innovation, quality with value. To get the inside track, I caught up with Icarcio’s Sabine Rothenberger and Enrica Mazzocchio to find out more about their mould-breaking wines.
Q. How would you describe your winemaking philosophy? A modern take on classic wines?
A. Yes, a modern take on classic wines. My father’s dream was to produce a 100-point wine, so everything is aimed at producing the best wines possible. Our estate is relatively small (with 27 hectares of vines; it’s a genuinely boutique estate), so everything can be hand-picked and there’s strict selection in the vineyard and the winery. We plant the traditional Prugnolo Gentile clone of Sangiovese, which is gentler than many other strains, and this gives wines that are concentrated and reflective of the terroir on which they've been grown. Quality is everything.
Rosso di Montepulciano 2024 – Deep ruby with red-gold highlights, the bouquet combines freshness (raspberries and alpine strawberries) with richness (cooked cherries, plums, and wild herbs). These flow onto a generous but well-structured palate, where they’re joined by leaf tea, woodsmoke, and dry, rounded tannins. The finish is firm and grippy, indicating a long future.
Q. The market for Tuscan wines is fiercely competitive, and there are a lot of wineries vying for consumers’ attention. What do you think has allowed Icario to stand out in such a short period of time?
A. We have fantastic terroir; our vineyards are terraced and south-facing, giving them wonderful exposure, and as they lie between 300 and 500m, the vines enjoy a long growing season and develop exceptional complexity.
Being open to experimentation allows us to plant the right grape on the right site. Our holdings include Sangiovese alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Colorino, which adds richness and intensity. Our white wines come from Trebbiano alongside international varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling, and Gewurztraminer. Our consultant winemaker, Franco Bernabei (a legendary winemaker who was integral to Tuscany’s wine renaissance), was central to our vision of blending tradition with innovation and helped us go our own way.
Icario Vitaroccia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2019 – the combination of familiarity and strangeness makes for an extraordinary wine. Classic cherry, plum, and violet notes interweave with blackcurrants, green peppers, and minty vanilla. It’s a story that continues in the mouth, with the Sangiovese laying complex foundations of red berries and cherries that the Cabernet overlays with cassis and blackberries to produce something much more than the sum of its parts. The finish is long, leisurely and full of nuance and twists, with a firm, dry end. Open for a couple of hours and savour with red meats, tomato-based dishes or baked Italian cheese.
Q. Are you seeing the effects of climate change? I know years like 2023 Tuscan were difficult. Have your sustainable practices helped you continue making great wine in challenging years?
A. Yes, to an extent, but our vineyards’ exposure and elevation are very favourable in this respect. We produce wines using sustainable methods; our grapes are grown organically, and we use natural treatments when necessary. We’re creating our own lake and are doing everything we can to protect our terroir.
Q. You’re not afraid of experimentation – your Nysa Blanco is a fascinating wine - how do you go about creating these wines?
A. We like uncommon grapes such as Gewurztraminer and Riesling, and when blended, they create something fresh and not too rich. Typically, we use around 50% Trebbiano, with Gewürztraminer being the smallest component as it’s so powerful and aromatic.
Icario Nysa Bianco – floral, succulent, and complex, the Nysa Bianco is a fascinating white. Pretty aromas of apple blossom, peaches, pears and a whiff of white pepper create an intoxicating cocktail. On the palate, the Trebbiano’s stone fruit generosity is given zest by the Riesling, body and apple tones by the Chardonnay, and a dash of exotic fruits by the Gewurztraminer. Just the thing for roast chicken or baked fish.
Q. Nicholas Belfrage in his 2002 book, ‘Brunello to Zibibbo’ declared that as part of ‘Chianti Classico 2000’ that Tuscany would finally see the best of Sangiovese in around 2025. Are you seeing the nature of Sangiovese changing? Would you agree that the vines are now the best they’ve ever been?
A. Yes, they are changing. The wines are ageing more slowly and developing greater complexity. (And drinking better young, I would add)
Q. Your plantings include native and international varieties. Would you consider planting more international ones, Sauvignon Blanc perhaps?
A. Not yet, though we never rule things out, but we’re trying to consolidate what they have and focus on producing the best wines.
Q. UK consumers love wines with age to them. How long do you think a wine like the Sansasia 2019 could age for?
A. The Sansasia has the potential to age for twenty years or more, and all our wines can age and develop in the bottle.
Icario Sansasia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019 – It’s hard to imagine a wine like this being made 25 years ago. It’s powerful and concentrated, elegant, refined, and stylish. The abundant black and red fruit lies within a tightly textured palate that seems to offer something new with every sip. The dried grapes impart a sweet prune tone offset by crisp blackberries, sweet and sour cherries, smoky oak, and earthy minerals. A babe in arms, it has a long future, but with a little air it’s adorable now with hard cheeses, lamb, herby sausages, or vegetable cannelloni.
Q. If you had to recommend two wines from your portfolio, one red and one white, which would you choose and why?
A. Sabine, the Trebbiano, as it’s so structured and substantive, and the Nobile, as it’s just so drinkable. Enrica, for me, it’s the Nobile and Nysa Rosso, as the Rosso is juicy, food-friendly, and versatile. Icario Trebbiano Bianco 2023 – Golden with emerald highlights, from the colour you’d be forgiven for expecting an oak-laden wine, and while there’s certainly vanilla spice to the nose, it’s only one of several characteristics. Flowers, yellow plums, melon, white peaches, lemons, and a savoury seam of chamomile make for a dazzling display. Rich and mouth-filling, the apple acidity keeps everything in check while the woody spice on the finish adds yet another layer of complexity.
For me, it's the Trebbiano too. It has white Burgundy levels of complexity, delightful floral tones, and layers of fruit and savoury flavours that create a dazzling complex glassful. I'd also plump for the Rosso di Montepulciano. Undoubtedly one of the best Rosso's I've ever tasted, it's intense, grippy, and cherry-soaked, yet it has a freshness and delicacy you don't often encounter. For me, this encapsulates Icario's blend of innovation and tradition.
Thank you, Sabine and Enrica; keep up the great work. Giles
Giles Luckett is a freelance wine journalist and Perfect Cellar’s Head of Fine Wine Sales